June 11.
Probably my favorite day of the entire 4 that I spent in the Philippines was this one. We left around the same time we left to go to Moalboal a few days earlier and arrived at our destination at about the same time, if not earlier. The only pit stop was for a half-hour Jollibee run, because you're not in Asia without going to Jollibee, which is basically fast food, but instead of getting fries with everything you get rice. You may be able to order fries too, but you basically get rice. Because it's Asia, and it's not a meal unless there's rice.
Anyway, we made the drive down to Oslob, a trip complete with inside jokes, made all the better by the fact that the days of the week in Cebuano are the same as they are in Spanish, so that was fun.
I'm still a little hesitant about this entry because it deals with the apparently controversial topic of swimming with whale sharks, so if you absolutely believe that swimming with whale sharks is bad even though you are not a certified marine biologist, you can let me know. Or don't. I kind of don't really care. I just know it's controversial, but as someone who's had a thing for whale sharks and marine life since I was a little kid, and after seeing the experience first-hand, I have some thoughts about the pros and cons of how the Oslob whale shark experience is handled. If you are a marine biologist and have your opinion as a trained expert in the situation, you are even more welcome to share your opinions.
Before that, though, driving through Cebu gives you views like this:
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| Most likely a coconut farm |
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| Rice paddies. The Philippines was actually one of the world's foremost exporters of rice at one point. |
So, a bit of the negative experiences with the whale shark dives. Once we'd arrived at the resort that was going to handle our dive, we were led to a table for the sign-up sheet. Foreigners pay 1500 PHP (about $29 USD) and locals 500. No complaints there; it should cost more for foreigners. I encountered the same thing in India, and while frustrating, it makes sense. While we've already paid for the airfare, there is absolutely no reason why we shouldn't pay more for certain experiences, given the fact that we are there simply because we have the money. That being said, once we got to the main beach which serves as the launching point for the dives/swim, we were led to a check-in desk and a gauntlet of stations where we listened to a presentation on how to behave with the animals. Number 1 is "Don't touch the sharks". This ended up being easier said than done, but I'll get to that. Number 2 is "Stay within 4 meters of the sharks". Again, easier said than done. Number 3 is "No makeup or sunscreen". While I thought it a little late to be bringing that up this soon before the dive as I had been informed of this rule the night before so I went completely coverage-free, just a swimsuit and sundress (which I should not have worn into the water, but oh well). I feel like these should be self-explanatory, but when you have a Korean girl whose hair is dolled up all cute and she's got her red lipstick on like she's going to a cocktail party, you kind of have to laugh.
The next station is when they give your group a number, and then you sit and wait till your number is called. We probably waited for up to 45 minutes. I didn't want to trust my phone in the water so I left it behind, and I had no data anyway since my plan only covers the US, Canada, and Mexico, so I ultimately have no idea how long it actually took before our number was called. Once called, they handed out snorkels, masks, and lifejackets before herding us into the kayaks that would take us out into the water. Once out there, we waited for the go from the crew (the crew being a group of fishermen in charge of controlling the situation) before diving into the water. Despite being an overcast morning that wasn't terribly warm, the water felt great once the initial impact of cold water hits you. That was when I realized that it was not good that my lifejacket was too big and worn improperly, because it kept riding up to the point that I couldn't spend much time underwater. That and with the snorkel adjustments I ended up getting lots of mouthfuls of seawater in my mouth before finally finding that "sweet spot" with the snorkel. Once everything got relatively sorted out, the experience was spectacular.
Apparently the primary criticism with the whale shark experience is the whole "disruption of migration patterns due to feeding" thing. Which is a very fair criticism to make and one which does bear pointing out. It does seem, however, that the whole reason why the whale shark dives are only open between 8:30-11:30 am is precisely due to migration patterns. The sharks are in the area just offshore between these times, and then at around 11 or 11:30, they leave. There is definitely a lot of food involved for the sharks; there's consistently fishermen on tiny kayaks with buckets of shrimp and small crustaceans that are continuously thrown into the water that the sharks quite literally gobble up. And when you're under the water watching them, without understanding that shrimp are quite literally the largest animal that whale sharks eat, you could easily think they'll come for you next. Once that sensation wears off, what you're left with is watching these massive fish (the largest fish in the world) swimming around, with their white dots making them instantly recognizeable in the dark water. I've been fascinated by sharks, and whale sharks in particular, since I was a child and loved all kinds of large marine animals like sharks, dolphins, and orcas (I still think orcas are absolutely beautiful, spectacular animals, though I definitely wouldn't want to get as close to one of those as I got to the whale sharks), so seeing them up close and personal in their natural habitat gave me such a rush of emotion.
Now, when we were told "Don't touch the whale sharks and don't get within 4 meters", clearly no one told the sharks that. The reasons why they tell you this are obvious. It prevents people from getting deliberately handsy with wild animals and could cause some serious problems. But when you're literally swimming in their food and they're clearly excited, it's nigh impossible to not have some contact, even when you're deliberately trying not to touch them. At one point I felt something brush against my foot, only to look down and find a 3-foot shark fin trailing my toes, with the bulk of its body about to bump into my knee.
So at the end of the day, I understand the complaints and criticisms about swimming with whale sharks in Oslob. I do. I'm sure there is definitely some quest for tourist dollars at play which is why the whole experience even exists, especially since they are so close to shore in this part of the world. I have to hope that if it truly does cause a severe problem in the migration patterns of these magnificent creatures that any restrictions will be enforced. In the meantime, the fishermen do seem to understand that the sharks are primarily there only during three hours in the morning and can respect that, and I hope I'm not being too naive in my trust in the system as it currently stands. But I will also say that as someone who does truly love and respect these creatures for what they are, an almost endangered species that needs to be cared for, the whole experience gave me an even greater love of them. There is something about seeing an animal you've been fascinated with for decades in the flesh, in person, touching your skin and swimming next to you that fills you with joy and purpose. I have an even greater appreciation and love for these gentle giants than I ever did before.
Maybe I am defending a horrendous practice, but from what I've seen, they are taken care of, the sharks are happy, and I haven't heard much chatter on the issue from actual scientists who make a living tracking and studying whale sharks. And if it is an actual problem and they do call for a moratorium on the practice, I sincerely hope the local authorities in Oslob comply, complaints from the locals and tourists be damned. I will gladly skip a return trip when I'm more prepared for the experience in the future if I know that the entire practice meets with major opposition from marine biologists.
And there's my say on the matter. Once I get the pictures back from my friend who took her GoPro (hopefully it works; it stopped working later that day so hopefully the pictures are at least salvageable if the camera itself isn't) I'll post some of them, even if I look kind of weird in a snorkel.
After the dive and feeling completely invigorated, we headed back up to the resort to eat, mostly snacks, because after spending half an hour treading water, even in a life jacket, you get pretty hungry. I got addicted to Cheesy, Filipino Cheetos, the spicy kind, and probably ate 2/3rds of the bag. Oops. Then the actual food came, and I ate some of it, even though I was already pretty much full from the Cheesy.
The main reason for the lunch break was because the plan was to get on the ferry to Sumilon Island, which has a spectacular sandbar, but it so happened that once we were out of the water it was already 11:30 and high tide, so there was no sandbar. I said I was willing to wait for low tide at around 2 o'clock to head out, because I wanted to see another island and check out this famous sandbar.
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| Our "cottage" at the resort where we ate is on the left. |
The wait was worth it. The ferry ride out and the sandbar itself were magnificent. The sea was calm; the waves not half as rough as back in Moalboal during a storm system, and the crystal clear turquoise water met with the white coral sand at a gradual incline that it felt almost more like a pool than a beach.
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| Approaching Sumilon from the ferry |
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| This is one of those sandbars that supposedly also changes shape with each tide, so you never see the same sandbar twice. |
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| Panoramic view |
I still cannot get over how absolutely beautiful it was. And for my last full day in the Philippines, it made my promise to come back in the near future even more solid. There is so much more to this island nation that I need to explore and experience.
On the way home we stopped in the town of Naga, kind of a suburb of Cebu, for dinner. We ordered food and drinks at Osting's by the Sea, then took a walk down by the waterfront where the town has built a wide walkway, boardwalk-style, for meandering. It's a quiet, peaceful walk, and on our way back witnessed a Zumba class out in the open, music blaring, people dancing, overall having a grand old time. Back at the restaurant, our food and drinks had been delivered.
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| Again, I have no idea how I didn't gain 20 pounds. |
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| Ladies and gentlemen... |
For those of you who have yet to understand or have any idea about what halo-halo is (I was originally confused myself), let me explain. It is a dessert, that contains what amounts to anything relatively sweet that you can throw into a bowl and serve as dessert. Halo-halo varies by restaurant, time of year, and probably even time of day, but mostly by restaurant. I witnessed arguments about which restaurant serves better halo-halo and why, and mostly because of what is, or isn't, put into it.
In this case, halo-halo consisted of ice cream, ice shavings, corn flakes, rainbow sprinkles (jimmies, if you're from that part of the world), a wafer straw with chocolate in the middle, chocolate syrup, and a maraschino cherry on top.
So that's how I got the complete Filipino experience in four days. Seafood galore, lechon, chicarones, Jollibee, halo-halo, and of course, white sand coral beaches with turquoise water and more coconut palms than I could shake a stick at.
The Filipino people are humble, hospitable, loving, caring, welcoming, and as warm as their country. I only technically visited three islands, but I promised my friend and her family that I'd come back and see them as soon as I can. Whether or not I'm still working with my friend does not matter. I will go back to the Philippines so see her family, and hopefully spend much more time at a better time of year when there's no tropical storm warning.
I fell in love, completely and totally. I have never visited a place in so short a time that has stuck with me in quite the same way, even though it hasn't even been a week since I left. It's not just a want to go back, it is a need. And I love the fact that I was made to feel so welcomed by a family I didn't know because of someone I met through work.
My Norwegian grandfather is up there telling me "I told you so."
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