Sevilla 2016

July 15-18, 2016.

July 15.

One of the great things about spending that summer in Spain was being able to see my best friend more often than I would normally, being based in the US and all.  My best friend had notified me early on that she'd be in Sevilla during the third weekend in July, my second week in Castellón.  The family I was staying with had a wedding and were going to be off of work, so I asked if I could go to Sevilla to spend some time with my best friend, whose husband was also going to be in town since some friends of his were going to be in Sevilla, and since it was the same country that my best friend is in, they met up there.  They had a long-distance relationship, her being in Bilbao and him being in Paris, so any opportunity they got to be in the same country for whatever reason they took.  And I really wanted to meet him, so I was so glad to be able to make this trip.  That and the fact that I hadn't been in Sevilla in over eight years, since my family left in 2009 and I was last there in 2008.  Win-win.

The family dropped me off at the train station in Valencia where I could spend the night before getting on the next AVE to Sevilla first thing in the morning.  It was my first time in Valencia and it was only for a few hours, but it worked out.  I stayed at a really nice Airbnb that was a bit of a hike from the train station, but worth it, because I got to see a little bit of Valencia that way.  Not a whole lot, and I'm sure one day I'll go back, but so far so good.

The Airbnb was basically a kind of guest house/hostel situation, but it was nice, and the hostess was glad to have another Spanish speaker, but once she left I got invited to dinner with two of the other renters for the night, two guys from Germany and Austria who were taking a van trip across Spain for a few weeks for funsies.  What made it really interesting was the fact that it was the same night of the coup in Turkey, and the guy from Austria was of Turkish descent, so he had a legitimate freak-out, and we also discussed current events in my home country.  I always feel like I'm tooting my own horn or thinking too highly of myself when I talk about my conversation skills with Europeans, but the fact of the matter is, Europeans really enjoy talking to Americans who know their stuff.  After the madness in the news died down a bit, I went to bed, since I had an early train to catch and wanted sleep.




July 16.

I got into Santa Justa, the main train station in Sevilla, after about a 4-hour AVE trip.  The AVE is the Spanish high speed train, which shortens travel time in the majority of the country by hours.  Taking the regular train would have taken about 5 or 6 hours, and the AVE took me a little under 4.  I'd forgotten how stifling the heat in Sevilla can be, and it wasn't even noon, so the worst was still to come.  I checked into my Airbnb, and found a time to meet up with my best friend et al.  Ended up being way late since I got lost in the Santa Cruz district, but met up with them anyway outside the Maestranza bullring.

Yay!  The Giralda!

Bullfighting is an extremely controversial spectacle, especially in Spain.  It persists because of tourist dollars mostly, since when most people think of Spain, it's beaches, sun, and olé.  The vast majority of Spaniards are against it in some way, shape or form, though it does persist in areas like Andalucía where it's still very much part of the culture, and major cities like Madrid where it's a tourist draw, and even in smaller cities like Pamplona (where it's a major tourist draw).  My best friend's fiancé's (at the time) friends were Indian and were interested in bullfighting, and it wasn't until the walk through the museum that they realized the bull was killed.  I think this is something that really needs to be reiterated for everyone curious about bullfighting.  The bull is killed.  For no reason other than to make a good show.  I'm not an animal activist, vegetarian, much less vegan.  I have no issue with eating animals for food even though I do love them, but bullfighting isn't killing for a purpose, it's killing for sport.  Nothing to do with population control-- these animals are bred and raised for the simple purpose of watching them get stabbed, gored, and worked to exhaustion when they're already suffering from major blood loss, only to then be stabbed to death in the final round.  That's what bullfighting is.  It's not a cutesy tradition.

I do believe that La Maestranza is a place to visit if you're in Sevilla and are interested in the spectacle itself, as it's one of the most famous and iconic bullrings in the world.  But do keep in mind that during the bullfighting season (in Sevilla it's usually early spring during the Feria) there are a lot of animals being killed here for no reason other than to put on a good show.  There's a reason why Barcelona was able to ban it for a few years, before the Spanish Supreme Court decided that the ban was unconstitutional.  So yeah.

Fun fact: La Maestranza is the only bullring to not be completely circular.  It's more...oblong.

We stopped at a place to eat near the Cathedral, and my best friend and I comandeered the menu since we were familiar with the options and could figure out what to order for discerning tastes and preferences, plus we didn't have to deal with deciphering the weird English that often comes on Spanish menus in the tourist areas.  Especially in the tourist areas.

After that, we went our separate ways to take advantage of the siesta, because you don't understand the point of the siesta until you live in Sevilla, and it becomes glaringly obvious.  It's simply too hot to function in the afternoon.  What I originally thought was tolerable became nigh unbearable, and I enjoy heat.  I really, really do.  But it's so dry in Sevilla you feel like you're living in an oven.  So we decided to meet up again around 8 o'clock when the temperature was far more tolerable.  And it's still daylight because it's farther west in Sevilla, plus it's summer in Spain and they're in the wrong time zone anyway.

One of my favorite buildings in Sevilla.

They actually build shade over the open areas.

Wedding pictures outside the Cathedral

When we met up again, we headed out to the Plaza de España where we'd hang out for a bit before catching the flamenco show that had been scheduled for the evening.

I absolutely adore the Plaza de España.  Every time I used to go into Sevilla when I was visiting my parents in high school we had to go to the Plaza de España.  It is absolutely gorgeous in any kind of lighting, and so photogenic from literally every angle.  It was built for the European Fair in 1923 I believe, and each province of Spain is represented in little booths spanning the length of the structure.  It's massive and gorgeous and houses municipal offices now, but it is absolutely worth a visit, regardless of how long you're staying.  Even if it's just a few hours.  This is the one thing you have to see in Sevilla, bar none.  Because if you make it here, you can see the Giralda and the Cathedral on your way back to wherever it is you need to be.  It is that important.

Sometimes I let people take pictures of me.  Especially when it's my best friend.

I feel like my pictures weren't as nice as they could be due to the waning light, but it was still stunning.  Even if your pictures don't turn out, it's still worth it.

The flamenco show was very impressive.  Living in Andalucía (even though my family hasn't lived there in years), you learn that real, authentic flamenco shows are hard to come by.  If you're not walking down a random street in Málaga where people are randomly bursting into song and dance, odds are you're not going to get a legit show, especially if you're in a place called a tablao.  Tablaos are notorious tourist traps, and while there are some good ones, it's best to actually find locals who can help you find the good ones.  Flamenco is very much part of the Roma culture in Spain, and is predominantly practiced in Andalucía (Córdoba, Sevilla, Granada, and Cádiz have some of the most vibrant Roma and flamenco cultures), though it is possible to find good flamenco in Barcelona.  For the best though, you really need to go to Andalucía and find a hole-in-the-wall place like the place we went to.  It was a huge space, but very run-down and didn't look like much, which was how I knew that we were bound for a good show.

And sure enough, it did not disappoint.  There were a number of foreigners there, but also a good chunk of local sevillanos, so it was definitely going to be good.  I didn't get a lot of pictures, and most of them are blurry, but it was a truly spectacular show.

The place was packed, but it was legit.

And I mean legit, though it's hard to tell from photos.

After the show, we headed out for some late-night tapas and headed back to our respective lodgings.

July 17.

My best friend's fiancé's friends had to leave early that morning, so after they dropped them off at the airport, we met up for breakfast and walked around Sevilla.  We were trying to find somewhere to go, when I remembered that my sister had mentioned that the residence for the late Countess of Alba was now open, at least partially, to the public as a museum.  The Alba family is nearly as royal as the King of Spain, and one of the few noble families to have not disappeared after the Spanish Civil War and the dictatorship.  Mostly because they had enough money to not lose everything.  As it was a brand new museum, we thought it'd be a good idea to check it out, and it really was fascinating.  It's called the Palacio de las Dueñas, and it's a bit of a hike from the city center, but well worth the walk and the visit.  The entire house isn't open since it is still a private residence, but after the Countess died, who was a legend in her own right, her family did a good thing in opening up a portion of the house as a museum, because the family's collection and history is fascinating.

The main courtyard

Classic arches in the mozárabe style

After the visit, we stopped for dinner before heading to the bus station so my best friend's fiancé could get a bus to the airport, and as my best friend was leaving a bit later we were able to walk around a bit and chat.  I gave her the best friend seal of approval on her fiancé, which she didn't need, and I wasn't afraid of not liking him, since she's my best friend and if anyone is going to be chosen by her I knew he was going to be awesome and deserving.  Which of course he was.

We headed back to the bus station together, got on the same bus since we were going in the same direction, and I got off at the Santa Justa stop, said good-bye to my best friend, knowing I'd see her again soon; maybe not as soon as a month, but soon enough.

I went back to my Airbnb for a breather, and left soon after to wander around Sevilla again by myself.

I may absolutely adore the Basque Country and see it as home, but Sevilla also has a very special place in my heart for being where I would go when I was struggling to fit in in high school at a boarding school, where I couldn't relate to anyone.  I would come home to my family in Sevilla, be surrounded by a familiar language and a much more familiar culture, and all was right with the world.  Sevilla reminds me of that.  It also happens to be where I made a connection with another very special person in my life, who I also consider a best friend even though we only spent a few days together eight years ago. It's such a beautiful city with so much history and culture it's a wonder it doesn't burst at the seams.  It's definitely not "the real Spain" because if you read farther back in my blog you'll see that there is no such thing.  But if your view of Spain is the Spain perpetuated by Carmen and the myriad of Spanish portrayals in Hollywood if you're American (since your view of Spain is most likely going to be vastly different if you're from the UK), then Sevilla is your place to experience Spain.  This is the Spain that's been distributed around the world.  And there is nothing wrong with that as long as you also understand that Spain is a big country with lots of history so there are a lot of cultures within its borders.

July 18.

This was my last day in Sevilla and I wasn't leaving until 6 in the evening, so I took the morning to visit the Reales Alcázares, or Real Alcázar, which was the capital of one of the emirates of Al-Andalus during Muslim rule, and was then used as a base during the Reconquista once it fell to the Christians.

It's a beautiful complex, and Hollywood has also discovered its beauty, as Game of Thrones has also done some filming here.

I was really glad to have as much time as I needed to spend here, just enjoying the architecture and the complex as a whole.  It's super touristy, but definitely justifiably so, so if you're not good with crowds like I am, just keep that in mind.  It's well worth it, and if you're by yourself you can easily find less crowded places to just enjoy.

The gardens are particularly spectacular.

I spent a good long while in the Reales Alcázares, and wandered off back into the city to enjoy looking at the Giralda and nearby plazas before I headed back to my Airbnb to pack up and head back to Santa Justa to head back to Valencia.

I just really really love Sevilla.